It’s always bitter sweet when a good restaurant dumbs itself down, but still does a good job. I was able to spend last week in Wilmington, and hit all of my favorite places. Kiva Grill was always at the top of our list. They did upscale southwestern in a way nobody in Raleigh does, pushing their way toward southwest fusion as much as any in this region. The southwest tempura rolls were fantastic, as was the Mexican barbecue sauce and jicama slaw in one particular burrito. It quite obvious that the dishes were very labor intensive.

Four weeks ago the Kiva Grill owners converted the restaurant to its sister concept, K38 Baja Grill . K38 leans much more toward California Mex with a host of quesadillas, burritos, fajitas, and tacos. I enjoyed the Mission Style chicken burrito, which was good, but not terribly different than 48,000 different burrito shops in Raleigh.

The restaurant was struggling with a few items that night, too. The fryer was sending out shiny-wet, greasy tortilla chips, and the water was terrible. Others at our table enjoyed their stetson rolls and quesadillas. However the star item at the table, as unbelievable as it may seem, was the fried chicken sandwich found on the children’s menu. Served on a large, fresh bun, the sandwich features an excellent chicken batter, lettuce, and an outstanding mayonnaise.

Everything about the experience except for the decor is a step down from the Kiva days. The menu is chock full of items priced between $7 and $12, down from Kiva’s $15-$23 price point, making the restaurant a little more family-friendly. The lower price point is matched by the clientele, too. The bar is now hopping with those overly tan, beachy, party bums that are everywhere down there.

There are nightly specials, however we hit the best of the rotating bunch: Wednesday $1 Taco Night. The full-sized tacos come filled with beef, chicken, or steak and are excellent. For those loving soft tacos, they are available for $2 on taco nights. I could have been happy ordering five crunchies and a salad.

K38 is going to do well as they are one of the few bargain good meals for people eating in the Porter’s Neck area. While there were a few kinks early on, the restaurant should be able to match the success of their Oleander Road location. It’s just sad to lose the choice of going to a unique restaurant that makes one enjoy their time away from Raleigh.

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